On the way from the Dead Sea to Galilee we popped into Nazareth. It didn't take long to identify with the Biblical quote above. The sites are of the sort we don't enjoy so much - finding somewhere where something in the Bible may have happened and build an enormous church on it (and if there are rival places, build two churches!). The food, however, was nothing short of superb. After a yummy dinner, it was time to head to Galilee and our German pilgrim hostel (according to the Lonely Planet). Rarely could the word hostel have been so misused. It's a lovely spot and serves lovely cakes and draft beer on its terrace overlooking the Lake.
Tuesday, 17 May 2011
On to lighter things (there's a pun there)
Day 2 at the Dead Sea took us to the desert hills and luscious pools of Ein Gedi - a popular hang out of King David in days of yore. It was then into the sea itself - a brilliantly surreal experience which I'm told also did wonders for my skin. It's actually a bit tricky to only keep your head above water - your legs are automatically drawn to the surface.
We stayed just off the southern tip of the Dead Sea in a moshav - seemingly a slightly less communist version of a kibbutz. It sounds like on a kibbutz everything is held in common. A moshav apparently allows the successful to keep some of their profits. We were right by the Jordanian border (which may have been the reason why there were - admittedly young and relaxed looking - armed soldiers guarding the entrance to the town) - you could see the border from the terrace of our little cabin. It came as a bit of a surprise that about half the moshav seemed to hail from Thailand (Singha appeared to be the top selling beer in the supermarket). Never did get to the bottom of that.
We stayed just off the southern tip of the Dead Sea in a moshav - seemingly a slightly less communist version of a kibbutz. It sounds like on a kibbutz everything is held in common. A moshav apparently allows the successful to keep some of their profits. We were right by the Jordanian border (which may have been the reason why there were - admittedly young and relaxed looking - armed soldiers guarding the entrance to the town) - you could see the border from the terrace of our little cabin. It came as a bit of a surprise that about half the moshav seemed to hail from Thailand (Singha appeared to be the top selling beer in the supermarket). Never did get to the bottom of that.
Suicide or heroism?
Despite the foreboding title, this isn't a post about bombers. Rather it relates to Masada down by the Dead Sea. Herod built this amazing place up in the hills overlooking the Dead Sea. Terraces, stream rooms, saunas - the lot. When the Jews started to revolt against the Romans, the Romans cracked down heavily and the last remaining rebels took over Masada. Herod had stocked the place so well they had enough stuff to last them for literally years. However, the Romans weren't willing to wait that long and, after many months trying, were finally on the verge of breaching the walls. By the time they did, basically the whole populace was dead (a few people managed to escape the well organised suicide pact).
The Scrolls
They've built a cracking museum to display the Dead Sea Scrolls. Not only is the architecture clever and iconic, it's also pretty insightful. It appears that the chaps who had the Scrollswere a group who had had it with Jerusalem and the Temple. All a bit corrupt and defiled for their liking, so they went off to set up their own community which more closely modelled how they thought things should be. They were committed to the idea of the Human Sanctuary i.e. that God dwelt in people rather than the Temple - sounded similar to what another guy was saying a little later.
Moving feast
You realise how arbitrary some sites are when you hear some stories. Apparently the site of Stephen's stoning moved a few hundred years ago to a more convenient spot. Mount Zion had also moved it seems. The Temple Mount was the original Mount Zion, but the name has since attached itself to another raised bit of land just outside today's old city.
One place which doesn't seem to have moved is the City of David. A stone's throw from the old city if you've got a decent arm. The exhibition starts with what I'm sure some would find a slightly provocative video which ends with news of resettling certain areas. Anyway, the really cool bit is walking through Hezekiah's tunnel - a 3,000 or so year old construction to help bring water into the city in case of inevitable siege. About 450 metres of underground tunnel with accompanying ankle deep water - an extraordinary construction achievement.
One place which doesn't seem to have moved is the City of David. A stone's throw from the old city if you've got a decent arm. The exhibition starts with what I'm sure some would find a slightly provocative video which ends with news of resettling certain areas. Anyway, the really cool bit is walking through Hezekiah's tunnel - a 3,000 or so year old construction to help bring water into the city in case of inevitable siege. About 450 metres of underground tunnel with accompanying ankle deep water - an extraordinary construction achievement.
Jerusalem - walls
Having put some thoughts in the previous posts, I thought I might mention some of the places we've actually been.
The Old City in Jerusalem must be one of the world's great cultural and religious melting pots. Four quarters are gathered within its walls - although the Armenians obviously weren't quite so up on their maths, so their quarter seems to be a fair amount smaller than the Christian, Jewish and Muslim equivalents. A walk around gave us a good impression of the place - one of the striking things is that the quarters are a bit rough and ready in terms of demarcation. Mosques, churches and synagogues can be found in each of the quarters.
We came off the wall and wandered on and stumbled upon the Wailing Wall. There's a sign up confirming that the Chief Rabbi is happy that walking through the scanner does constitute a violation of the Sabbath. However, going up to the Temple Mount is a no-go according to the Chief Rabbi. Not (as I understand it) because the Dome of the Rock Mosque is up there, but rather because you might accidentally step on the Holy of Holies (given that its exact location is unknown).
The Wailing Wall was a little quiet the first time we were there, but a return visit on the Sabbath was (as you would expect) a different matter (the guy at security was also a bit more fastidious, he seemed keen for me to declare that I had a knife with me - I had to disappoint him). A steady stream of people poured into the area in front of the Wall from the three separate entrances. There were very distinct groups gathered to pray and sing. One chap seemed to be some form of youth leader who got a whole bunch of people singing and stood on a chair so the women on the other side of the fence could join in too.
The Old City in Jerusalem must be one of the world's great cultural and religious melting pots. Four quarters are gathered within its walls - although the Armenians obviously weren't quite so up on their maths, so their quarter seems to be a fair amount smaller than the Christian, Jewish and Muslim equivalents. A walk around gave us a good impression of the place - one of the striking things is that the quarters are a bit rough and ready in terms of demarcation. Mosques, churches and synagogues can be found in each of the quarters.
We came off the wall and wandered on and stumbled upon the Wailing Wall. There's a sign up confirming that the Chief Rabbi is happy that walking through the scanner does constitute a violation of the Sabbath. However, going up to the Temple Mount is a no-go according to the Chief Rabbi. Not (as I understand it) because the Dome of the Rock Mosque is up there, but rather because you might accidentally step on the Holy of Holies (given that its exact location is unknown).
The Wailing Wall was a little quiet the first time we were there, but a return visit on the Sabbath was (as you would expect) a different matter (the guy at security was also a bit more fastidious, he seemed keen for me to declare that I had a knife with me - I had to disappoint him). A steady stream of people poured into the area in front of the Wall from the three separate entrances. There were very distinct groups gathered to pray and sing. One chap seemed to be some form of youth leader who got a whole bunch of people singing and stood on a chair so the women on the other side of the fence could join in too.
Saturday, 14 May 2011
Real sights
There's no end of churches in Jerusalem - most of which seem to claim be somewhere significant (down to where Mary's parents used to live...). The apparent competition between denominations gives you the feeling of a land grab. Everyone wants their piece of the Holy Land. You can't help feeling that less would have been more. The most poignant sites for us weren't the various churches but the undeveloped bits which gave you an insight into what things may have looked like. Places like the 2000 year old olive grove at the bottom of the Mount of Olives which may well have been Gethsemane (the Mount of Olives is otherwise fairly devoid of olive trees as it turns out and very full of graves of people lining up to be first to see the Messiah).
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He is not here
The gospel stories culminate with the resurrection of Jesus. Luke's gospel records the angel telling those visiting the tomb "he is not here". The Bible story then goes on to describe Jesus' disciples going out filled with the Holy Spirit doing all kinds of mind blowing stuff. They didn't seem all that concerned with commemorating the spots where Jesus died and rose again. Presumably they had more pressing things to do!
We visited a few sites in Jerusalem which seek to convince us that x, y or z happened there - with varying degrees of evidence for their claims. The next level are the claims which simply cannot be true. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (which is said to stand over the place where Jesus was crucified and buried) has a slab which is venerated as the stone where Jesus' body was laid and we saw a number of people who seemed to be seeking some special intervention from this slab. Sadly I'm told the slab was only put in place in 1810 and there's nothing to suggest that it was put in place because it was in fact the slab where Jesus' body was placed. It seems to show that we like the tangible even though the message is more exciting: he's not here! The fact of his absence from the tomb demonstrates something much more significant.
Symbols can be helpful (as The Garden Tomb - the Protestant rival to the Holy Sepulchre - leaflet reminded us). Jerusalem is great - it brings some things to life, but the real message remains: he's not here!
We visited a few sites in Jerusalem which seek to convince us that x, y or z happened there - with varying degrees of evidence for their claims. The next level are the claims which simply cannot be true. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (which is said to stand over the place where Jesus was crucified and buried) has a slab which is venerated as the stone where Jesus' body was laid and we saw a number of people who seemed to be seeking some special intervention from this slab. Sadly I'm told the slab was only put in place in 1810 and there's nothing to suggest that it was put in place because it was in fact the slab where Jesus' body was placed. It seems to show that we like the tangible even though the message is more exciting: he's not here! The fact of his absence from the tomb demonstrates something much more significant.
Symbols can be helpful (as The Garden Tomb - the Protestant rival to the Holy Sepulchre - leaflet reminded us). Jerusalem is great - it brings some things to life, but the real message remains: he's not here!
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